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In the spirit of the communal table, here’s a potluck contribution that travels well, so you can take it to parties all summer. I was inspired to make it, I confess, when I accidentally found three heads of celery in my grocery bag instead of the one I meant to buy (don’t even ask how that happened), but the happy result was a salad so crisp and lemony that I will certainly be making it again. It joined a host of other outstanding salads in our friends’ back yard this afternoon, where I also discovered the allure of thick slabs of roasted fennel. Just make sure you save a fennel bulb for the salad.Remember that riotous fiesta of a Summer Crunch Salad with Feta, Mint, and Lime? The one we had to make over and over because it was so good? This salad is a refined Italian relation: fennel, Parmesan cheese, lemon. You could go the distance by substituting pine nuts for the pumpkin seeds. Either way, the key elements here are the same: celery and fennel for crunch, plenty of Parmesan shavings for salt, and enough lemon juice to make the whole thing sing.Crunchy Celery and Fennel Salad (inspired by Bon Appetit): Thinly slice the stalks from a medium-sized bunch of celery. Quarter, core, and thinly slice a fennel bulb (or two if they’re small). Chop a big handful of parsley, and toss all those green things together in a wide dish. Top with a few good handfuls of toasted pepitas and a shower of Parmesan shavings (I made mine with a vegetable peeler). Drizzle with olive oil and squeeze half a lemon over the salad, then toss everything together again. Taste a forkfull; it should be a little salty from the cheese and quite lemony. Add more cheese or lemon to taste (I ended up using a whole lemon, but it’s always better to start off with less and add more to taste).